ThatiswhatI askedmyself when we got here two days ago (on opur third try after being stuck twice on the tarmac of Jammu--this foggy valley srinagar is in keeps planes from landing) and saw the soldiers and barbed wire fences at the airport.
I am in a freezing internet cafe, 3 hours before dark when we all have to be inside.
This place makes me want to cry. It is beautiful, frightening, and heartbreaking. eek. words are reducing the magnitude of what I have seen. I feel like I have been here amonth.
More when I get back to Delhi tomorrow (inshallah the plane leaves).
So many stories.
So much kashmiri tea.
So many guns.
Fire pots to keep your hands warm.
Sun breaks through for 3 hours per day.
People for whom hospitality is a vocation with no one to host.
My heart is full.
I can't decide if i want to stay here for months or leave immediately.